Perestroika – From Russia With Love - and Good Taste

Okinawa is an amazing place. Just when a person thinks they’ve seen all there is to see on this little island, up pops another delightful surprise. Say, for instance, you suddenly get a craving for genuine Beef Stroganoff or a hearty serving of authentic Old World borscht. No need to book a trip to Moscow or St. Petersburg.

It may be a little hard to believe that you can find most excellent Russian food in this part of the planet, but you can. It’s in a tiny restaurant called Perestroika, smack in the heart of Naha.

Owner and operator Elena Nikitenko named it after Mikhail Gorbachev’s philosophy that began the dissolution of the old Soviet Union and the ending of the Cold War. That, in turn, led to more friendly relationships between what is now Russia and the United States and opened Russia to the rest of the world.

That is very fortunate for people in Okinawa because now the sampling of real Russian home style cooking is within reach.

To assure that the cuisine stays true to its roots Ms Nikitenko employs a chef from her native city of Vladivostok who, Nikitenko says, “puts her heart and soul into her cooking.”

She also states, “I would like for everybody to try my restaurant’s food because it is like the warmth of being at home.”

Of course, the home part could be true if you have an ex-grand chef like Irina Sechova doing the kitchen for you. It’s not just anybody who can whip up a real ‘jarkoe’ so perfectly delicious that the bread covering baked on top overflows, like a mushroom gone ballistic. Inside the bubbly stew pod pie is a savory blend of meat and vegetables that compels you to sop up the last little bit at the bottom of the bowl.

The jarkoe is only one of the culinary concoctions familiar to Russians but probably unknown to most Americans. For example, how many have tasted Sibirskia Pelmeni? It is a traditional dish of minced meat filling surrounded by thin dumpling dough. And how about Morskoi Zamok, which is filleted cod in a spinach sauce? The variety is tempting. Golybcy, Russian style rolled cabbage – delicious! Then there’s Myaso Po-rybatski, described as flavorful pork served with scallops, onions, tomatoes and cheese.

Some of Perestroika’s menu items might be recognized by taste, if not by name. Vareniki is also called a perogie in Canada or pirogi in Chicago. It’s a dumpling stuffed with mashed potatoes and sour cabbage.

Beef Stroganoff is a well-known classic but this version is the genuine article, made by someone who would never think of using stuff that comes in a box. Real beef, real sour cream and real Russian soul go into this delectable offering.

There are other surprises you will want to discover, from the creative salads to the out-of-this world desserts.

There is one extra special treat if you go on Saturday or Sunday – the passionate dancing of Leila Askerova. She performs traditional folk dances and a temperature-raising Russian Gypsy dance with energetic, earthy abandonment.

The restaurant is open Tuesday through Sunday from 6:00 pm to midnight with last orders taken at 11:00. Prices range from ¥ 1700 to ¥ 3200 for complete sets, with all items available ala carte.

To find this gem take Highway 58 south from Kinser, past the Kukasai turnoff to the overpass with sign announcing Highway 330 (before the actual intersection to 330) and take a left. Go to the end of the block, turn right, heading south. There will be two small parking lots where you should park as the restaurant has only two spaces. Walk south past the first small street and look for Perestroika in the middle of the next block on the west side of the street.

Phone (098) 863-2206 or check out their website . It is in Japanese but you can use your computer translator for a general look.

Kendo, The Art of the Sword and the Keen Mind

Tom McGee is a real stand out in his class. Literally. For one thing, the six foot plus Georgia native is the only ‘gaijin’ in the Kendo group, and, what’s more, the rest of the students are all elementary and middle school age children.

But McGee is not really bothered by those facts. He accepts that as a virtual newcomer to the art long associated with the swordsmanship of the classic samurai he must start at the beginning. The former Marine has been in Okinawa for sixteen years and is married to a local woman. He became interested in kendo after his children started attending the classes at the Haebaru Community Center.

“Not every sensei in Okinawa that teaches Kendo is as gentle and considerate as Yamashiro-san,” Mc Gee says. “Some make the parents sit on their knees for the whole session.”

Sensei Hideki Yamashiro is a calm, charismatic man of seventy-five years whose working life was spent in corrections at the prison near Haebaru. He started the kendo club in 1985 and has achieved the honored level of 7 dan. The highest level possible is a 9 dan but few ever reach it. The 10 dan is no longer awarded.

That he is respected by the young boys and girls is evident from the outset. Like all children they run about and yell after each other before the formal training begins. The sensei puts on his ‘dogu’, the distinctive flowing garment used as a uniform, serene and confident amidst the bustle. But when it is time to begin, he issues a firm command, without lifting his voice, and the class immediately responds.

They line up, kneeling on the floor of the community center, which transforms with their use into a ‘dojo’.

McGee sits at the far end, a little apart. His children, nine-year old Ryo, seven-year old Minè and five year old Rin, know the drill and are as attentive as the rest as Sensei Yamashiro kneels facing them.

They begin with a meditation, which is the result of a long ago association with Zen Buddhism. When Zen reached Japan hundreds of years ago many samurai studied its teachings and incorporated them into their practice. Because one of the tenets of Buddhism involves the concept of reincarnation, it gave the samurai courage in the face of danger. If one dies having lived an honorable life why fear death if it only leads to another life?

After the short respite where the mind is cleared the children line up in rows and take up their shinai, or bamboo swords. One child is given the task of calling out the moves and for a period of some time they practice lunges, shouting out and executing a ritual stamping of the forward foot. The sensei watches carefully and corrects students individually as needed.

McGee, who has been involved with the group for over a year, said that most beginners, including him, are not even allowed to join the exercises until they have spent much time, even months, perfecting the precise thrusts of the shinai off by themselves.

Once the students have achieved a certain proficiency they can don the armor consisting of a helmet, called a ‘man’, the torso covering known as a ‘do’, and the flaps that protect the lower body, called ‘tare’. They then take up wooden swords, ‘bokuto’, and, working with partners, perform a series of formalized movements, including striking specific areas of the opponent.

One interesting test of courage and concentration pits one budding ‘kendoka’, or swordsman, without helmets, against another with one standing still as the other feigns a blow to the head, stopping short of actually striking him.

The entire point to the practice of the martial art is the development of self-discipline, as real swords are rarely used except as exhibitions by top masters.

Keiko Arakaki, whose son, Toshinari, has been engaged for about three years in the practice is clear on how the training benefits the children. “It has made him a better student in school and provided positive changes in behavior, respect for others, and confidence in himself,” she says.

At the end of the session, the children, and McGee, once more line up, kneel and bow respectfully to the sensei. After that the young kendoka once again become energetic children, boisterous in play.

Really Inuit – Taking a Kayak to Launch

It was the Inuit of the northern climes, in Alaska, Greenland and Canada, who first covered a driftwood skeleton with animal skins to create the lithe kayak. It was an important tool in their survival, dependent as they were on the sea.

While its method of construction has undergone some changes, the form of the kayak has remained basically the same as the high-tech built craft enjoyed by Geoff Hunt, an expert kayaking guide and instructor. But while the evolution of the water skimming boat has been fairly straightforward, this guide’s journey to the sea has been quite a bit less direct.

Far from any significant body of water, growing up in the mountain village of Pine in Arizona, Hunt didn’t even realize that Japan is an island. His first question, when he was called by DoDDs in the mid ‘90’s about a teaching job there, was, “Does it have an ocean?”

His interest in the deep began as a fourth-grader back in the White Mountains when he used his hard earned allowance to buy a subscription to Scuba Diver magazine. The periodical stoked his daydreams of diving, fishing and exploring exotic locations.

Still it took two years after making the move to mainland Japan before the kayaking fever struck. “… I knew from the very first moment that I loved it,” he says.

Visiting Okinawa on his honeymoon with new bride, Kaoru, Hunt was “totally dazzled by the emerald blue,” of the sea. He quickly applied for a transfer and considers himself lucky to have gotten it.

He spent the next couple of years mapping routes and currents off of Okinawa and the surrounding islands. He is a stickler for safety, emphasizing it to his clients. As he exclaimed, “I frequently meet people on the water who don’t have their PFD (Personal Flotation Device) on – what good is that? – or don’t even have the minimum of safety gear!”

It is that cautious attitude that assures anyone hiring Geoff as their guide or instructor that an outing on the sea will be a pleasurable experience.

For the $50.00 a day fee he supplies the kayak, skirting, and other necessary gear. The client is responsible for their own lunch and proper clothing.

Kayaking may be addicting. As Hunt puts it, “Paddling isn’t just a hobby, it’s a way of life.”

His eyes come alive as he describes experiences he has had, such as exploring the Izu peninsula on the mainland, which is full of lava tubes that created caves, tunnels, inlets and deep wall refractions. Or the time a large manta ray flew overhead, startling the group he was guiding.

Okinawan waters present unique challenges as there are not as many nor as large protected areas as the mainland. Because of that, Hunt has researched a variety of routes, planning entries and exits, noting escape areas. In his wanderings he has discovered the best spots for snorkeling and day hiking. He gives credit and thanks to Eric Eckman, a fellow kayaker and dive instructor at Kadena Marina for helping him in the process.

The business, which is called Devil’s Cove Kayakers, now boasts a flotilla that includes eight kayaks, of which six are single seaters, one for two people and one for three.

He says, “I can take up to eight people out to see some of the most beautiful areas of Okinawa.”

His final thoughts and words of advice sum up his approach. “If conditions are at the edge of your ability, stay on the beach. There is always a better day. Practice safe kayaking, plan your trip, be prepared, be aware of your impact on the environment. Respect wildlife, and be considerate of others – you never know when you might need to lend a hand to someone, or need to reach out your hand for help.”

Geoff Hunt can be reached at 090-8723-6985.

Thalasso Therapy – Neptune’s Healthy Gift

Most health professionals agree that stress and tension can be the underlying cause of many physical ailments. Fortunately, one treatment for some kinds of such strain can be quite easy to take.

Thalasso therapy may sound like Greek to most of us, and it actually is. The word thalassa means ‘sea’ in that language. While ‘taking the waters’ is an age-old practice, it was a French doctor in the nineteenth century that first used the term to describe the use of seawater as a form of physical therapy.

There is no mystery to the therapy. While it can include showers of warm water, application of marine mud or of algae paste, or the inhalation of sea fog, one method is to simply step into a hot pool of seawater and allow the soothing action to take effect. The benefit, not medically proven but widely accepted, is said to occur through the body’s absorption of some of the ocean’s mineral content.

Trace elements of magnesium, potassium, calcium sulphates and sodium, found in seawater, are believed to be absorbed through the pores of the skin.

Hot springs are found throughout Japan, thanks to the geothermal activity that created its many islands, including Okinawa, and are known as ‘onsen’. However, in order to be called onsen the Japanese government has set minimum standards for the minerals to be found in the water.

In Okinawa many of the finer hotels offer seawater pools or treatments but there are some establishments that are dedicated solely to the spa environment. Three that are popular among people in the know are Chula-u in Chatan, Kanna Thalasso in Ginoza, and JA Bath House Aroma in Ginowan City. Though all offer various forms of massage and saunas each has unique qualities.

Chula-u is situated in American Village across the street from the New Century Hotel behind Jusco. It has the largest outdoor pools of the three, with access to the adjoining beach. Men and women are both allowed to use the pools but there are separate hot springs for the customary nude bathing, men on one side, women on the other.

Chula-u also offers a fine Japanese style restaurant with a view over the huge outdoor pools to the China Sea beyond. The water here flows from a sea geyser at a temperature of about 106° F. Be sure to try the “Doctor Fish”, tiny fishes that eat old skin cells from people’s feet and cause a most agreeable sensation of electric tingling.

Kanna Thalasso is owned by the village of Ginoza and can be found by leaving the expressway at exit 9 and heading south on highway 329 for about two kilometers. Look for it on the left just past the Hokubu Hospital.

Kanna features a series of connected indoor pools with jet sprays, and a large Olympic size lap pool. It also has a water slide that offers an exhilarating plunge into a not so warm pool. Outside, the spa has a number of pools also with jet sprays, some under canopies, some uncovered to the whims of the weather.

Kanna has the most spectacular of settings, facing the Pacific Ocean looking out onto the islands of Ikei and Miyagi.

It has both dry and steam saunas with a frigid plunging pool adjacent to them and the rest of the hot pools. The restaurant is pleasant and seating can be had outside to enjoy the fabulous view. Bathing caps are mandatory and the pools are all co-ed. No nude bathing here.

JA Bath House Aroma is a pleasant surprise in the midst of an industrial complex behind the 100 yen store off of Convention Center Drive. Turn west at the light immediately north of UniQlo until you see the flags opposite the Tostem building. There are no signs in English but the exquisite Japanese garden in front will be a clue.

Although the spa is not directly on the beach it has been designed into a very tasteful environment. The outdoor pools are set in a stunningly created landscape that will make you forget the outside world. A word of caution: JA does not allow anyone with tattoos to enter.

JA offers jet baths, a peaceful relaxing pool, bubble baths and a waterfall pool. Clothing is optional in the separate areas, as is the tradition in Japan. A small restaurant is on the premises for refueling after the relaxation open from 2:00 to 3:00 pm.

Prices for the spas vary from 1,000 yen to 2,500 yen and can depend on the time of day or week. It wise to check the schedules at each place as hours may also vary.

Brazilian Jiu-jitsu, The ‘Gentle’ Martial Art

Will Weber, a Kadena High School freshman, can be considered a typical twenty-first century teenager. The fifteen year-old shares many common traits with his peers including being a devoted fan of UFC. It is his dream to enter the octagonal ring in a display of raw physical confrontation.

The Ultimate Fighting Championship, along with WWE (World Wrestling Entertainment), holds a fascination for a great many people, not only youths. The UFC began as a no-holds barred battle using all the tools of hand-to-hand combat to cause an opponent to yield. It has evolved slightly after outrage about its initial anything goes genesis to make the contests somewhat less dangerous.

Weber has the right idea about preparing for a possible future in the world of mayhem by studying a form of judo known as BJJ or Brazilian Jiu-jitsu. That is because a surprising number of UFC and WWE fighters win their bouts due to their knowledge and skill in the practice.

As with most or all martial arts, BJJ has maneuvers that can be utilized to disable or kill in a life or death situation. But while participants each train for their own reasons many are interested in the sporting aspect.

Marine George Galvan, for instance, says, “I learn how to do the deadly stuff in my military training. Although it does complement what I learn there, I do this for the fun and exercise.”

Michael Allen, an Airman, along with his 18 year-old Cody and 12 year-old Kyle, practice not just for the fun of it, but, he says, to help them develop confidence. Kyle is the youngest of Nakamoto’s trainees and already shows an impressive understanding of the sport.

Okinawa now can boast of only one accredited Brazilian jiu-jitsu instructor. His name is Ivan Nakamoto and he represents a return of sorts to its origin of the art that began in Japan as a samurai fighting technique called kodokan judo.

In 1914 an expert in kodokan, Mitsuyo Maeda, traveled to Brazil where he encountered a man whose family has become the singularly best known name in BJJ. The man, Carlos Gracie, learned from Maeda and developed his own unique version of the method. His four sons also became masters and their descendents predominate as exponents of the constantly changing art.

It was a Gracie who partnered with a promoter to form the UFC, meant to showcase mixed martial arts (MMA) to the public.

Nakamoto was born in Brazil with a father of Japanese descent and a Brazilian mother. Like many children in the country he grew up with the technique. Since then he has become a professor of what is often referred to as the ‘gentle’ martial art. Unlike karate, boxing or other contact arts BJJ is a no-strike technique.

Its basic premise is that most contests end up on the ground and the main objective is to take down an opponent where the use of leverage with legs and arms can be employed in a series of joint locks or chokeholds. In this way a smaller person can overcome the weight or strength advantage of a larger adversary.

Nakamoto’s training teaches basic moves that are essential skills in the practice. Students move in grades belt by belt as they become proficient in a bewildering array of moves and tactics. The highest rank, rarely achieved, is the red belt stage. Nakamoto is a black belt level adept.

He began teaching BJJ only in March at Risner Gym on Kadena, charging a very reasonable $80.00 a month for lessons three times a week. He also teaches off base at Onoyama Budokan, the dome shaped arena next to the ‘tree restaurant’ on the Naha Airport road. For the twice a week lessons there his fee is 5,000 yen.

Men, women and children are all welcome to join in learning the self defense skills. He can be contacted at 090-4268-0731 or by e-mail at

Legend or Living Landmark – Jack of ‘Jack’s Place’

The passion that Sadamu “Jack” Oshiro has for his work as manager of one of Kadena’s well known eating establishments has not diminished with time. As a matter of fact, the seventy-something Oshiro seems to enjoy his job with an enthusiasm one would associate with a neophyte having something to prove.

But Oshiro is no beginner. He has presided as manager of Jack’s Place for over 36 years and continues to oversee every detail of the operation, which has earned a reputation as one of the finer places in Okinawa to enjoy a meal.

He did not start out to be in the food industry. As a young man of 18 he had plans to attend college in the United States and was actually accepted at the University of Ohio. But one day he visited a friend who was working at a club on the base, which had fallen into American hands after the bloody battles of World War II.

The club was busy and the manager asked Oshiro if he wanted to work. It was a fateful decision leading to a long and successful career.

Although Oshiro was born in Okinawa, he has had a bit of the “luck ‘o the Irish”, so to speak. As the Americans made their way inexorably across the Pacific, he was sent with other children to the mainland where it was thought he would be out of harm’s way. He was twelve years old, just short of his thirteenth birthday, a fact that kept him from being drafted into the Japanese Army. As they zig zagged on their way to evade gunfire and torpedoes, another ship carrying children was mistakenly sunk by ships of the US Navy. All aboard were lost at sea. Oshiro’s vessel was untouched.

Oshiro spent the remainder of the war in Miyazaki, where, he says, he was excited by what he considered an adventure. “I was just a kid,” he remarks, “so I didn’t really understand what was going on.”

Returning to Okinawa he discovered that his father had been killed during an air attack. “It was a Grumman plane,” he says. The elder Oshiro lived long enough to write out a will. The experience could have embittered the young man, but he says, “My father taught me that sometimes we are involved in circumstances beyond our control. We should not hate our fate, but live as best as we can.”

In the film, The Last Samurai, the character played by Tom Cruise notes that the Japanese, upon awakening , spend the rest of their day attempting to bring perfection to everything they do. The observation, in general, is fairly accurate and could describe the attitude of Oshiro in his work.

The extensive and eclectic menu at Jack’s Place is of his design. He is there every evening along with longtime hostess, Kiyo Sakuda, to greet customers, encourage employees, assuring that everything from the décor to the settings is as good as can be.

It was as a tribute to his devotion to quality as well as to his warm personality that the club was named after him. It happened over thirty years ago when the place was known as Skoshi KOOM – the Little Kadena Officer’s Open Mess – when he was called to the main club for an “emergency.”

“When I arrived at the club,” he relates, “I found about 400 people waiting to give me a surprise testimonial party.”

He was greeted with a standing ovation and a song written especially for him was performed. As a finale he was handed a brand new sign to replace “Skoshi KOOM” with “Jack’s Place.”

You can sample some of Jack’s trademark excellence in the form of a variety of dishes and at reasonable rates. Jack’s Place specializes in Kobe beef and also offers fine seafood, Japanese and Chinese cuisine and garlic dishes, along with a kids’ menu.

Jack Oshiro is an integral part of Kadena’s history, happy to relate his experiences. He’s seen a lot of changes, watched young officers become flag officers, and, no doubt, will see many more.

Jack’s Place can be found by taking the first right after Gate One, just up from the Student Transportation Office. Open every day except Monday for dinner only.
Phone: (DSN) 634-JACK.

Okinawa’s ‘Juan Valdez’

When it comes to a cup of coffee, it can’t get any better or fresher than Hiro’s. This Okinawan version of ‘Juan Valdez’ grows his own, harvests it, cleans it, roasts it and then brews it, too.

Hiro Adachi tends his field in the hills of Yambaru at the picturesque, northern part of the island. There, his twelve hundred trees yield over thirteen hundred kilograms of organic beans from December through May every year. Most of the crop is sold through his small coffee house on Route 70, which is managed by his daughter, Tomoko. But many customers who have found the small wayside coffee haven after having been stationed in Okinawa receive his product via mail as far away as California.

Camp McTureous is nearby and Adachi commented that a lot of Marines come to know his place and appreciate the brew he offers. As he has noted in articles written about him in such coffee gourmet magazines as “Lightening- The Coffee Style Magazine”, published on mainland Japan, “my coffee has a natural, sweet taste to it – easy to drink, even for people who don’t drink a lot of coffee.”

He says the differences in types of coffee are all in the place it’s grown and in the way it is roasted.

“Coffee trees likes cool mornings and hot afternoons,” he points out. And, he adds, “an interesting fact that is that the lighter the roast, the stronger the caffeine content.”

“On the other hand,” he continues, “roasted beans with a very dark color actually have less caffeine and can be drunk in the nighttime before going to sleep. People who like a deep taste with a little bitterness will prefer the dark roast.”

Adachi began his personal coffee plantation in 1993 after working with his uncle and cousin in Kona, Hawaii for a few years. He imported Arabica trees from Brazil and waited patiently for the five years it took for them to mature and begin producing.

He is originally from Osaka where he was involved in electronics and even had a six-year career as a racecar driver. Leaving Osaka for Saipan and other Pacific islands he discovered he was suited to a casual life style. Visits to Okinawa made him realize he could use the knowledge he gathered working in Hawaii to create the unhurried life he wanted while still being in Japan.

For coffee lovers, his decision to settle here is fortuitous. There are probably not many places where one will get the opportunity to savor the taste of homegrown coffee no matter what price they pay.

To have a sip of Hiro’s you will need time to meander all the way to the tiny village of Takae. Highway 70, an extension of Highway 58 on the Pacific side of the island, is a winding, slow road far away from the traffic of central and southern Okinawa. It is worth the trip alone simply for the incredibly beautiful scenery. Coupled with the taste bud pleasing experience of his coffee (and Tomoko’s home baked cookies) it is a very nice way to spend a day.

Adachi speaks English well and can be contacted by phone at 098-043-2126 or by e-mail at hirocoffeefarm@k5.dion.ne.jp.

Hitting a New High in Okinawa

Maybe you’ve heard that human beings all hide a ‘child within’, even when they are adults. And maybe you’ve wondered where yours got lost.

Not to worry. You’ll be sure to find that ‘child’ when you’re soaring high above the lush jungle trees at one of Okinawa’s newest attractions, Forest Adventure in Onna Village.

Opened two years ago, Yvonne Sato commented, “It was a long time coming.” “And really,” she added, “it’s what Okinawa is all about.”

No doubt her reference was to the magnificent natural beauty of the relatively untouched places still left here.

Sato is one of five professional staff at the compound who will teach you the important basics that will keep you from any whiff of danger as you wheel on the cables suspended everywhere above the forested compound.

She came to the island from Scotland four years ago to do some scuba diving then fell in love with an Okinawan pilot, married, and now considers the place her home.

As she illustrates the correct method of fitting the French made harness and how to properly hook the carabiners and pulleys to assure that one does not tumble into the foliage far below, it is easy to see that she thoroughly enjoys her work.

Demonstrating on one 300-foot suspension it becomes even more apparent when she dangles upside down, the living embodiment of playful ecstasy, zipping across the valley, landing expertly upright on the cushioning wood chips at the end.

The course is laid out over the mountain with steel cables anchored to sturdy steel towers, the longest run being well over a hundred thrilling yards across. Along the way you will step gingerly over a “Tibetan bridge”, wrapped almost in a cocoon made of corded netting while safely attached to a safety cable overhead.

Reading about the place before arriving, childhood images of playing Tarzan in the woods came to mind, and it was a delight to learn that the end of the course features the ‘Tarzan Swing’.

This bit of excitement entails a jump from a tower probably thirty or forty feet above the ground, flying a hundred feet or so into a cargo net and sticking there like a fly to flypaper. It can be reminiscent of a Japanese game show where people in Velcro suits fling themselves into Velcro covered walls. But, of course, one does not actually get stuck to the net and after picking one’s way across it to the catwalk dignity soon returns, although giggles can involuntarily escape after thinking of what you just did.

The rest of the entertainment is provided by an obstacle course meant to provoke fun rather than strenuous exercise as, for example, a wobbly trip over ‘Granpa’s Crossing’ and the balancing act called for in the ‘log swing’.

Lest you feel that you must be a well-buffed military person to enjoy the experience, be assured that this reporter is an old geezer with a sorry lack of physical buffness and it was no problem at all navigating the runs.

Probably it was the ‘child within’ who was really up there, but it was the old guy who had all the fun.

Getting to the Forest Adventure will take keeping your eyes peeled, as the signs are not in English and the reception office does not stand out. Mark exactly ten kilometers from the stoplight at the main gate at Torii Station, keeping on Highway 6 towards Cape Maeda, and, about a short block after the Minshuku Camino guest house, look to your right for the office abutting a small grocery market. That will be where you will register, sign a waiver, and pay your fee. A shuttle will take you up to the mountain.

The website, www.foret-aventure.jp, is in Japanese but you can see photos of the place. The phone is (098)963-0088. Cost of admission is 3,500 yen for adults and 2,500 yen for those under 18. Family specials are available, but only yen are accepted, no credit cards or dollars.

There are some caveats: the weight limit is 286 pounds, and the minimum height is 56 inches. Groups of ten or more must supply a mobile phone number, and book and confirm at least by 4:00 pm the day before to guarantee time blocs.

Kin Town Flea Market

The old adage about ‘one man’s trash being another man’s treasure’ is plainly evident while strolling through an old style flea market. There, attics and garages are emptied and expectant vendors lay out their wares in hopes that someone will want what they sell badly enough to actually shell out cash.

Hope, the impulse to collect, and raw need, being perpetual human attributes, combine to form the engine that keeps these ragtag events alive and thriving.

Surely there are those who wander through the stalls, deliciously feeling the thrill of the hunt, peering and poking under the jumble of goods hoping that a gem has somehow escaped the knowledge of the seller and the eyes of some other savvy buyer.

There are others whose impulse to collect extends to things unfathomable to many – string, buttons, obscure novels, toy soldiers and such – while others desire items somewhat easier to understand, such as coins, stamps, art.

Still others haunt the cacophony of offerings in search of reasonably priced and still usable common necessities like pots and pans, baby bassinets, clothes for fast growing families.

But there are still others who enjoy the mere pleasure of experiencing the amazing variety of stuff that is created, imagined, and utilized by the fascinating species to which we belong.

Whatever the motive, flea markets are interesting environments and, although many exist, none can surpass the character of some you can discover on the byroads of Okinawa.

Take the one at Kin Town on Highway 329 heading north to Camp Hansen. It is the epitome of funky on the exterior, a conglomeration of canvas, tarp and seemingly extemporaneous construction. But disembark from your chariot, adventurer, and step into another world so full of just ‘stuff’ that it almost raises a raucous music of its own.

There is some semblance of order. In the main section, fruits and vegetables, mostly homegrown, occupy the first irregular aisles, but beyond them anything goes.

So take your time to look around. While some of the inside merchandise matches the funkiness of the exterior there is lots of really nice booty to peruse. Check out the snakeskin wallets and the skillful handiwork on the shanshin banjoes. Take a careful look at the clothing in the back. It looks new, and probably is, and would cost you a pretty penny, or yen, in a classy department store.

Don’t neglect to browse through Tomishige Umosa’s collection of vinyl records. Elvis is in there and old Beatles, too. Examining the American coins in a box nearby you may notice a slew of Liberty head dimes. He says he used to drive a taxi over thirty years ago and got them as payment for fares. There are misprinted twenty-dollar bills as well, but you’d be well advised to know what you’re looking at before you lay out the price.

Elsewhere, Buddha figures repose next to well-used baseball gloves, and the eclectic variety of objects would put an old fashioned dime store to shame.

On your way out be sure to pick up produce so fresh you’d have to grow it yourself to get fresher.

Immediately south of the main stall section is another informal construction housing live plants, including cacti. Inside, another sensory assault waits. Ceramic pots, statuary, knickknacks, polished natural wood shapes, all covered in dust make it appear as if the things have been there for centuries. It is so much that your eyes may have a hard time finding something to settle on, but try. At the very least you will be pleasantly amused. And maybe you’ll find something you just can’t live without.

You’ll find this oasis of stuff just about half a kilometer north of Expressway Exit 8 at Kin Town. It is fully open on weekends, closed on Mondays, and some hawkers will be there the rest of the week.

The Young Men and the Sea – On the Briny Deep With Captain Chris

At 0500 on an Okinawan Saturday morning two black vans glide through the pre-dawn murk. Anticipation rides the faces of the eight Marines inside. Their senses are poised for action.

The sun has yet to show its face from its journey to the underworld as the warriors reach their take off zone and unload their gear and the day’s necessary supplies. The captain, an easygoing sort, waits patiently, knowing his charges are in for a heck of a mission.

Boarding the craft that will take them to their objective, the young men stow their stuff and take places aft of the fifty-footer. Quickly the five hundred horsepower diesel engine throbs to life and the captain eases out of the Awase Port berth and into open waters.

As soon as the boat is free of the harbor, purring like a giant cat, the Marines settle in. Then, as if at a silent signal, one reaches into the ice filled cooler and starts handing out the brew. The men begin fueling up, ready for a long day of deep-sea angling.

The captain has been running folks out to the fishing grounds for ten years. He knows the seas and the islands around Okinawa like he does his own name, which happens to be Chris Pancoast. He began taking out charters on his own last year and has a reputation of being a straight-shooting skipper.

Pancoast is one of only two Americans ever invited into the Okinawa fishing association.
He has been on island for fifteen years, five of them as a Marine. He fell in love with the place and one of its daughters and speaks pretty good Japanese.

“I can be on the board of directors, be president, and set policy now,” he says proudly of his membership in the association. It is obvious he honors the privilege.

His boat, Blue Fin, is Spartan-like, meant strictly for the business of catching fish. No frills, and the fishermen seem not to mind a bit. One Marine remarks that he’s been out with Captain Chris before and likes it better than the so-called party boats that carry up to a hundred. “No room on those,” he says, “too many people, lines get tangled.”

And on this craft a person keeps all their catch if they want. Some cruise charters set a limit.

At about 0730 the sonar spots a school, probably lollygagging around the sunken buoy that has created an environment for their food supply. The boat is out about fifteen miles north of Okinawa in open sea.

Captain Chris lets the boat power down and soon is drifting gently. The Marines come to life, hustling out the bait, tossing out the chum.

Gunnery Sergeant ‘Gunny’ Wes Latham gets the first hit. It sets the adrenaline flowing in all of them as he pulls up a nice yellow tail. It’s a fighter, and Gunny is a happy man when he hauls it in.

It doesn’t take long for the other guys to start reeling in their own tuna, roiling the water with their struggle.

In about half an hour the action slows down and Captain Chris tells the men to reel in. He checks the fish finder and points the bow seaward again.

Now the catch is the silvery bonita, related to the tuna, and also offering a good game when snagged. The fellows finally break a sweat with the strain of the quick abundance and the direct glare of the fully risen sun.

Then Griffin Alford feels a hit on his rod that is definitely bigger than the previous tugs and suddenly the luminescent splash reveals a fighting mad mahi mahi that has swallowed the hook.

It is not giving in easily, leading Alford in a battle that circles the boat. Captain Chris stands by giving encouragement and advice. The standoff lasts for more than fifteen minutes before the fish finally is gaffed aboard. It fights even then, resisting to the last.

Alford is a happy guy, tuckered out but victorious and no one doubts he will take the pot for having brought in the biggest fish. It weighs in at about twenty pounds and reaches almost three and a half feet. He has been endowed with a terrific fish story that he will remember for a long time.

A little later it’s Gunny’s turn to snag a nice sized mahi mahi. He gets a good fight out of it for another fifteen minutes, at least, but this time the fish wins, breaking the line at the last moment before the gaffing hook has got it. If disappointment has a face, Latham wears it.

By the end of the day everybody has had a taste of the excitement, fished out and tired, but happy. As one puts it, “Open sea, good fishing, great buddies, and beer - what could be better?”

If you’d like to try your luck, you can contact Captain Chris at 090-9788-0282. The cost is about a hundred clams for a really nice, long day.

Getting Neighborly With the Dolphins

They glide with unparalleled grace, leap effortlessly in silvery flashes and romp with carefree abandon in the oceans of the world. They are dolphins, among the few mammals on earth who have made the deep water their domain.

On a list of the 1,001 most interesting things to see and do before you leave Okinawa, no doubt the chance to make contact with one of the sea’s most intelligent creatures would be close to the top.

In cooperation with the Okinawa Marine Research Center (OMRC), the upscale Renaissance Okinawa Resort Hotel in Onna offers just such a unique opportunity to get close to dolphins in their natural habitat.

While the hotel provides the venue, a professional OMRC staff of thirty is responsible for the training and care of the animals, which now number twelve, three of which are spotted dolphins still being trained. All staff members have backgrounds in oceanic fields such as marine biology.

Stories of interactions between the dolphins in the wild and humans are many, and although it seems as if they have a natural affinity for people Senior Specialist Atsuko Miyashita states that teaching them requires a great deal of patience.

According to her, “It takes about a year and they are taught basically using Pavlovian methods.”

It appears to be a matter of finding the ‘language’ necessary to communicate, as the gentle dolphins are eager to please, as is apparent when the trainers relate to them.

Most of the creatures at the facility are bottlenose dolphins. But spotted dolphins are also among the residents and finding them in captivity is uncommon. Atsuko Koshida, the Okinawa area PR manager for the Renaissance, attributes their presence to the skill of the OMRC staff.

“It is rare to find the spotted dolphin away from the wild due its sensitive nature,” she says, “but the staff here has found the means to keep them alive and thriving.”

The dedicated diligence of the youthful staff sets the stage for the positive quality of the experience, which is open to guests as well as well as non-guests of the hotel.

A spectrum of programs is available varying in times of day, fees, and intensity of contact.

The “Hello Dolphin” program at 9:00 am at 4,000 yen includes a lecture and twenty minutes of play with the dolphins. This program takes place with the participant out of the water with the dolphins at the edge. Children are allowed but must be accompanied by an adult.

“Family Dolphin” takes place at 9:30 am, by reservation, and is intended for groups of not more than five people. This activity takes place in the water with touching and interactive playing allowed. Accompanied children are allowed and the cost per group is 30,000 yen. The program lasts for about forty minutes.

“Into the Blue” is a sixty-minute encounter where you can swim, touch, and play games with these wonderful dolphins and snorkel in the hotel lagoon. Touching the animals is not allowed while snorkeling and there is a height requirement of at least 4 feet (130 centimeters) for children. Cost per person is 10,000 yen. It begins at 10:00 am.

The “Dolphin Encounter” segment is for all ages and occurs in shallow water beginning at 11:00 am. Touching and playing with the dolphins for forty minutes is featured. Children’s fee up to 12 years of age is 6,000 yen, above that is 8,000 yen.

Starting at noon, another waterside activity is the “Dolphin School and Fish Class”, a thirty-minute program for parents and children. It consists of a lecture on the ocean creatures of Okinawa and play with the dolphins, although no touching is allowed. Children under the age of three are free, ages four and above are 1,500 yen.

Programs open to non-Japanese participants end at 4:00 pm with the “Dolphin Jump”, the only one of the activities that allows a still and video cameras. It is for viewing only as the dolphins glint out of the sea in dramatic flight. The cost is 1,000 yen for ages four and older, free to children three and under, although children must be accompanied by adults.

Reservations for any of the programs must be made in person and all activities depend on tide and weather conditions, as well as the dolphins’ willingness to participate. In-water activities require you to bring your own swimwear. Children under six years old must always be accompanied by an adult

The Renaissance Okinawa Resort Hotel is easy to spot on the beach off of Highway 58 about ten kilometers north of Kadena AFB.

Okinawa and Its Very Own Chocolate Factory

It’s a rare individual who doesn’t like chocolate. The promise of it can make an unruly child behave, melt an angry heart or coax a smile out of a miser. The dark variety has even been shown to be beneficial to health.

And can any special day be thought of without chocolate? It is everywhere and available in a multitude of tasty tidbits.

But it was not always so. Just a few hundred years ago only royalty could enjoy the distinctive flavor of the cocoa, or cacao, bean product.

While cacao trees have been cultivated since at least 1100 B.C. in what is now called Latin America it was not until the Spanish conquest of Mexico that chocolate was known to the outside world. In Mexico the beans were actually used as currency. As a beverage it was bitter and its consumption was limited to the upper classes of Aztec society.

Thanks to a Dutch family, the Van Houten’s, who invented a machine in the 1800’s to process raw chocolate, and with the addition of milk and sugar, the delicacy eventually became a worldwide favorite.

Three thousand years and an industrial revolution later and chocolate as it we know it is here. Hershey’s, Mars, Nestle’s are all big time manufacturers whose products are as familiar to us as the names of our best friends. But they are the mass-market distributors and those who crave only the best and purest of the mouthwatering goodies have to look to the exotic suppliers. Most of the really good stuff, it is generally agreed, comes from Belgium. But not all.

Hidden away on what is commonly known as “Suicide Alley”, a street paralleling Highway 58 in Ginowan, is an enterprise whose specialty is the creation of top quality chocolate candies.

Fashion Candy began in 1975 as a one-person business. Okinawan native Ritsuko Chinen had a fascination with chocolate, researched how candy was made and started selling edible leis. As her interest and involvement intensified she sought further knowledge by visiting chocolate makers in Europe, particularly Belgium, and learned the finer points of the industry.

She now employs over a hundred people in her factory and shop. No visitors are allowed in the actual kitchen, which occupies the upper stories above the stylish boutique. She guards her secrets and methods rigidly, so only the results are evident.

According to Sayaka Nakamura, who is apparently the only English speaking employee at the store, Ms Chinen is known as “The Leader and is responsible for the creative side of the candy making.” She has a fulltime packaging designer on staff that comes up with the distinctive wrappings and seasonal displays.

Customers of the little shop can measure the time of year by the ever-changing décor. Valentine’s Day, Easter, Halloween all have their iconic treats and Christmas is no exception. Gift wrapped chocolate snowmen, Santa’s and pretty presents fill the place with holiday cheer.

But Fashion Candy, who sells its products under the label ‘Ma Kukuru’, which means, according to Ms Nakamura, “a bit of serenity,” is not limited to chocolate. Besides candy they offer scrumptious cakes, special occasion cards and decorations, and many varieties of the traditional Okinawan chinsukou cookies.

To find this unique shop take Highway 58 to the MCAS Futenma gate intersection, marked Oyama, and almost immediately take the road south paralleling 58 for about five blocks. Fashion Candy is a two story white building on the right.

Their website, all in Japanese, is www.fashioncandy.co.jp and their phone is (098) 897-5194

Cassavora County – A novel by William ‘Bill’ Stroud

Anyone who has read Okinawa Stripes over the past few years has surely seen the bylines of Bill Stroud. Now Stroud can be read in a new book he authored called ‘Cassavora County.’ It’s a far different type of writing than the articles he has posted in this paper.

The task of writing a book is formidable. Usually stories written there run typically to five or six hundred words, roughly a page and a half, typed. Stroud’s book is 327 pages in length, a true novel.

And it is a humdinger of a novel. Set in the rural south and dealing with a character named James Morgan running for a seat on the local school board, the tale brings to life all the drama, comedy and infighting of the real world of small town politics. It is a vision in microcosmic terms of the imperfect, quite frail state of the human condition as it exists on our planet in general.

Stroud is a writer, like some others, who can see the universe in a grain of sand, as the old saying goes, and he does it in a highly entertaining way that zings with right-on observations, dialogue and circumstances. The folks who populate Cassavora County will be familiar to anyone who has lived in a small town, from the good natured sheriff to the religious fanatics, egotistic developers and power drunk folks in temporary authority. They are smaller versions of the world-class characters who parade across our national and international scenes, including the buffoons and obstructionists.

The novel opens with some fairly risqué business written in an almost pulp fiction, old fashioned style hammered together like a Micky Spillane thriller. The opening will either clutch you in titillating wonder or it may put you off. But it doesn’t take long for Stroud to settle into honest story telling in his own voice and then you can simply lose yourself in the fascinating sequence of events.

The main guy in the story is Morgan, whose background is interestingly much like Stroud’s. He is a retired Air Force fighter pilot who flew sorties in Viet Nam and has a deep sense of patriotism as well as a commitment to some rather high ideals, especially in regard to education. He is also a writer struggling to finish and sell a novel. The resemblance ends there. Morgan’s desire to tackle the job on the school board comes after a failed marriage and a move back to his birthplace after living all over the world.

There is plenty of frustration in Morgan’s drive to be elected derived from the foibles of human nature but humor thankfully inserts itself at the appropriate moments to keep the reader from getting overly edgy about the thankless situation.

The book neatly weaves together a couple of subplots, including a dandy ‘whodunit’, that finally make sense in the end.

Stroud has other books in progress and in his head and seems undaunted by the fact that it took nearly ten years and two complete rewrites to get this one to print. He learned along the way that, he says, “ The greatest thing is to let yourself go and not write for someone else. Don’t censor yourself. We’re all sensitive to other people’s sensitivities, but you have to let go and just write.”

As advice to any other would be authors he says, “You have to tell a story. Sex and violence alone will not hack it. We’re all saints and we’re all sinners.” He adds, “Writing is a process, you really have to stick with it. Understand that nobody just sits down and writes a novel.”

This first published book by Stroud certainly illustrates that he can stick with it and announces him as a thoroughly serious writer.

You can get in on the action of Cassavora County by ordering it on-line from Amazon.com or by looking through the bookshop at the Kadena BX. Other Base Exchanges should be getting copies soon if they haven’t already.

Engines, Pavement, and Passion

There is probably no greater representation of the spirit of freedom than a set of sweet wheels, a full tank of gas, and an open road. It is no wonder that American’s love affair with cars has achieved legendary status.

It is a love affair that manifests itself in a bewildering array of forms: classic stocks; wildly customized statements of bold individuality; raw, full-throated power plants; and mind shattering bullets of speed.

From sea to shining sea in the USA internal combustion-powered trophies of every description devour endless miles.

Such devotion to the automobile could never be contained within the continental borders, of course, and military members, expats and contractors who carry the passion congregate and celebrate everywhere they end up in the world, including Okinawa.

The limitations of space and facilities on the island do not dampen the enthusiasm of the true fanatics, although what there is of the car culture is, much like an iceberg, unseen on the surface.

While there are a number of car clubs not all are open or even visible to the general public. Two of the better known are the American Dreams Racing Car Club and the Ryukyu Car Club Association, each with its own focus of interest. They both help sponsor shows on and off bases all over Okinawa.

American Dreams, with its motto of “Bringing American Muscle to Okinawa,” is drawn to ‘muscle cars.’ The originals were American made from the late ‘60’s and early ‘70’s, with humongous V-8 engines, torqued and tricked out to the max, and designed for straight out speed.

Along with the bigger models manufactured by the “Big Three,” Ford, General Motors and Chrysler, were the smaller, so-called ‘pony’ cars, which included the popular Ford Mustang.

Mike Hertz, a former USAF NCO and now a military contractor, has owned his ’66 ‘Stang for nearly twenty years. The fully restored 4- speed GT 350 H now carries a 302 V-8 generating 300 horsepower with a gear differential of 4.11. He is planning to upgrade his award-winning ride with a 500 horsepower aluminum head block.

Fellow club member Antoni Hairston’s muscle is packed into a ’91 Pontiac Trans-Am GTA, powered by a super-charged 350 V-8. A Knightrider fan, he has used his computer expertise to create a replica of the famous television show car with a functional electronic, talking dashboard.

The members of American Dreams are experts at finessing the bureaucratic maze involved in getting US cars into Japan and are always willing to help anyone interested in doing so. They also have sources for hard to find parts and reliable mechanics.

Other auto aficionados get revved up by precision built Japanese models, such as Brian Parker’s ultra clean and super zippy 2005 Subaru WRX STi Spec-C. Like many who are dedicated to their cars, Parker ordered many special stock features to further improve performance. In Parker’s case he went with huge Brembro Brakes, 12 liter intercooler sprayer, 18” SSR lightweight wheels and Bridgestone Potenza RE0505A tires.

Some clubs exist for particular purposes, such as the Okinawa Car Club that delights in drag racing and ‘drifting,’ usually at circuits in Nago.

Other clubs emphasize their obsession with specific brands, such as BMW’s or Volkswagens.

Activities that attract the car crowds aside from shows where ogling is the norm include cross-country events and “poker runs.”

There are clandestine happenings usually known only to insiders and taking place far from sanctioned sites. Participants would be well advised to inquire of their unit commands if an event is ‘off limits’ to SOFA status personnel.

As Brian Parker stated, “We hope that nobody does anything stupid that will make the rest of us look bad.”

A common thread that seems to run through all of those enthralled with the different aspects of automotives is the creativity, time, and money that they are willing to expend to make their cars top of the line.

One place to see the astonishing variety of vehicles in all their glory is the American Village Jusco parking lot around 2300 (11:00 pm) on the last Saturday of the month, especially if the weather is fair.

Capoeira, The Rhythmic Dance of Self-Defense

Capoeira was born in Brazil out of brutal necessity. The three million slaves taken to that South American country, mostly from Angola, were treated miserably, not just by their owners, but by anybody who was not a slave. Even after emancipation, the lot of
former slaves was wretched as they were generally denied entry into the mainstream of Brazilian life.

It was from the fact that they had to be prepared for mistreatment at any time that the concept of ‘malicia’ evolved. The term, which literally means malice, signifies that bad intent by another to one’s self has to be assumed. A hand outstretched in supposed friendship, for example, can be followed by a sneak attack on an unsuspecting victim.

Capoeira encompasses the concept, and training to be ready at any time for a surprise assault is an integral part of the martial art.

The style of fighting, dance-like, acrobatic, defensive, is thought to have roots in Africa but developed its unique movements as a way to disguise its true intent. Slaves were not permitted, of course, to be armed, nor even to defend themselves. While slavery was ended by 1888, capoeira was actually outlawed until the early 1930’s in Brazil. Until that time practicing the combative art-form could be considered a cause for imprisonment.

In recent times, however, the practice has migrated around the world, made known mainly through action movies like ‘Only the Strong’, made in 1993. It has been featured in other films and video games since and continues gaining in popularity even in Japan.

In Okinawa, Benjamin Moriniere, a Texas native, began his academy on Highway 58 near Obligatto after becoming interested in capoeira fifteen years ago. He teaches a style known as Capoeira Regional which was created by Manuel dos Reis Machado, better known as “Mestre Bimba”. Bimba was the man who convinced Brazilian authorities back in the 1930’s that capoeira was a true cultural treasure, which finally led to its legalization.

Moriniere, along with fellow instructors, Yesenia and Jerry Washington and Nozomu Okano, are mentors to about eighty enrolled students, men, women and children.

Training is done after warming up in a circle, known as a ‘roda’ and is often accompanied by clapping, drums and the use of a bow-like instrument called a berimbau. Tempos can be slow or fast but the object is not necessarily to make contact, rather to develop one’s own rhythm.

As Moriniere says, “Each movement learned is like a letter of the alphabet. Eventually you begin to put together your own sentences, catch your swing.”

Jerry Washington explains that the movements are learned in a ‘siquencia’, or sequence. “The point,” he says, “is to start from nothing and gradually build your strength and agility.”

When engaged in the sport for fun or practice the sweeping movements of the leg, known as rasteiras, are used for tripping up an opponent rather than meaning to disable or injure. Slight variations in the positioning of the legs and feet usually make the difference in whether the play is intended as a true defense in an actual attack situation.

Acrobatic headstands, spins and head strikes are other moves that are learned. Cartwheels, called aù’s, are also part of the art and are utilized as evasive and tactical maneuvers. Combining escape and defense in constant motion creates the flowing, graceful beauty of the rhythmic martial art.

As in any martial arts discipline there are many levels and combinations to discover. Anyone interested in investing time and energy towards mastery of capoeira may begin by signing up for a basic three-month course with Moriniere or his colleagues. The fee is $300.00 and lessons are given at least three times per week. Continuing the course entails a fee of $100.00 per month for approximately twelve sessions per month.

Details may be had by calling Benjamin Moriniere at (098) 936-8883, or by checking out the website at: www.capoeira-okinawa.com.

British Wine and Tea Shop – Okinawa Accented

Taking the road less traveled can lead to interesting discoveries in Okinawa, as many adventurous people know. One of the most delightful, and tasty, surprises can be found just off of Highway 84, the route to Motobu from Nago. There, perched on a beautiful hillside just a few hundred yards from the main road, sits The British Wine and Tea Shop.

It’s not just the name that sets it apart from countless other dining spots on the island, but also the extraordinary cuisine and the absolute dedication to culinary perfection of its owners, John and Maki Farmer.

Both of them are classically trained chefs, with John handling the main courses while Maki prepares the devilishly delicious desserts. Maki, a native of Kumakura on mainland Japan, is an honors graduate of Le Cordon Bleu, the British branch of the famous French school of cookery. She perfected her artistry at both the posh Savoy Hotel and the five-star Sheraton in London.

Finding them is a quest in itself, but the reward can make an epicure of the least sophisticated and please even the most jaded palette.

After the turnoff to a leafy country lane one will see a chalet style edifice, once a fine art gallery. Disembarking, a welcome first from Ollie and Cromwell, the Farmer’s pampered toy poodles, sets the exuberant tone for the gustatory experience to follow.

The menu is simple. Four entrees are listed, including Quiche of the Day, Moussaka, a Greek casserole, British style Chicken Curry with Rice, and Tandoori Chicken with rice and salad.

“Hold on a minute”, you may think, “Quiche? Curry? Tandoori Chicken? Where’s the meat and potatoes? Something a real man can enjoy?”

But be bold and keep an open mind. One taste of the buttery salmon quiche and you will be hooked. It melts in your mouth in an explosion of goodness that leaves the old taste buds clamoring for more. Your perceptions of what a meal should be will rise to new expectations. The ladies will be in Paradise, too busy in the rapture of the moment to speak.

There’s more. While the menu lists only the four dishes, Chef John may spring yet another surprise and offer something his robust creative mind concocts especially for the occasion. Witness the generous salmon steak with a cream sauce that can only be described as divinely inspired. The meat is flaky, the accompanying broccoli perfectly steamed. Broccoli? Yes, friend, broccoli. Not the limp, overdone green thing served as an afterthought, but a novel sensation that brings glory to the much misaligned vegetable.

And the side of scalloped potatoes? It has to be experienced. Words do not do justice and adjectives fail.

Press onward. The British curry, evolved from the English tenure in India, gives lie to the traditional views of Her Majesty’s cuisine. It is robust and flavorful without the excessive bite of most curries, allowing for the savoring of the sublime spices within.

Save room for the desserts. Maki-san is a Michaelangelo with pastries. The cheesecake with blueberry compote will tempt you to wolf it down. It’s beautiful in the bowl, yes, but let it linger on your tongue, the tartness and the sweet playing melodies in your mouth.

The chocolate goodies, any of them, will disarm your judgement. Be cautious and don’t make silly promises while you devour their addictive richness.

And did anyone know that the English make wine? Indeed they do. Both white and red and even a confirmed beer drinker will have to admit there is something great about the bounty of these grapes.

The final revelation occurs when the tab comes due– none of the entrees is priced above 850 yen. The fabulous desserts are only 420 yen. But if you decide to add clotted cream to the Freshly Baked Rock Scone and Jam it will set you back another 100 yen.

Now you know, but don’t tell anyone. You won’t want to share this secret. To get to this little Shangri-la look for a small sign announcing ‘Izumi’ on the left about three kilometers past the Nago Pineapple Park. The next turn to the left after Izumi will have an even smaller sign saying ‘British Wine and Tea Shop.’ Take it and be amazed.

The restaurant is open from 1100 until 1900, usually closed on Fridays, but they will open on demand.

The phone is (098)047-7133. E-mail:

Getting to the Center – “Belly Dancing” Redefined

It’s a bit tricky trying to explain ‘Belly Dancing’ without resorting to debunking popular myths and fantasy about the ancient dance form. But watching Anzè Shaw put her class through its paces it’s obvious there is something emanating from a source deeply different than any ‘hootchy kootchy’, modern-day perception.

Anzè, from the island of Miyako-jima, was living in Los Angeles some years ago with her American husband when she decided to take dancing lessons. Poring through the yellow pages of the phone book she came across someone offering Oriental Dancing. She had no idea what that meant and went to see what it was all about. She very quickly became a fervent devotee of the dance with its exotic, Middle Eastern roots.

Although the true genesis of the form are murky, some sources assert that what is today commonly referred to as ‘belly dancing’ had its beginnings in Babylon of old, now southern Iraq. It was eventually taken by Arab tribes into Egypt, and performed usually by peasants or slaves, where it evolved to its present forms.

In some cultures men and women alike perform local versions as social dances. These are part of a tradition known as ‘raqs baladi’, or ‘folk dancing’.

The other form, ‘raqs sharqi’ or ‘dance of the east’, with many variations, is the more well known in the western world.

Anzè Shaw, along with some famous practitioners, holds that it began as a natural movement common to women, who must cope with the practicalities of birthing and child rearing.

“Long ago,” Anzè says, “women used different parts of their bodies when working. Work was different, more physical.”

She notes that the exercises involved in her classes isolate specific areas, such as the hips, stomach, and shoulders where strength and flexibility are required.

As an example, she demonstrates a placement of legs and hips that is used when holding a child to the side. Another move utilizes muscles used in birthing or in lifting an older child. Put together, stylized, and set to the rhythm of music the movements become a graceful, definitely feminine dance.

Shaw was living on Miyako-jima when a young woman from Okinawa asked her to bring lessons to Okinawa. Her interest had by then taken her to Egypt for further study with masters of the form where she had to learn enough Arabic to understand explanations of the movements. The year was 2003 and President Hosni Mubarak under pressure from native Egyptian dancers banned foreigners from being ‘star’ performers, relegating them to the background. Knowing she had little future as an outsider she returned to Japan.

Taking up the invitation to check out Okinawa, Shaw has settled in and now offers classes at three venues here, including one at Urasoe, near Kinser, another at the Haebaru community center and the newest in Chatan.

Faith Chavez, who dances under the name of Wafiyyah, says that the dancing centers her, and relieves stress. The other ladies of the class agree.

The dance form encourages self-expression, and individual creativity, lending itself to improvisation.

"While the dance can be seen as performance, enjoyable to watch," Shaw says, "it's really for yourself. A way to get in touch with your own spirituality, your own sense of being a woman."

Getting in shape and learning the movements means a real workout, as can be seen by the perspiration and concentration on the women’s faces. But there is an easy camaraderie and fun as well, giggling at slip-ups or missteps. Anzè is a patient teacher and her passion is contagious.

The group is available for performances. To schedule a performance or to take a class contact Anzè Shaw at (098)875-7474 or 090-6896-7754. The class fee is ¥7,000 per month and includes a weekly one-hour session.

Ballet Folklorico – A Dance Fiesta Celebrating the Culture of Mexico

Cinco de Mayo, like St. Patrick’s Day, Ocktober Fest, and the Chinese New Year, has become an occasion for anybody and everybody to have a good time celebrating the fun aspects of another culture.

Interestingly enough, while many people think of the day as a commemoration of Mexican Independence, it is not, and not even generally considered a holiday in Mexico. What it does commemorate is an 1862 defeat in battle of the last foreign army to invade the Americas. In this case it was the French, who, while stopped by a much smaller and less equipped Mexican Army at Puebla, nevertheless went on to occupy Mexico for several years. For Mexico, September 16th is considered Independence Day, the date on which, in 1810, it declared itself free of Spanish rule.

In the United States Cinco de Mayo (the fifth of May) began as a celebration of pride by people of Mexican descent in their rich heritage. Today it is known and observed in various countries throughout the world.

Besides the tasty food and popular beverages, performances of Mexican folk dances representing the different regions of the nation are usually featured. Each group presenting the shows is known as a Ballet Folklorico.

Okinawa has had its own Ballet Folklorico for twenty-nine years according to Juan Carlos, who has been with it for twelve. Its members, not all with Mexican roots, currently practice at Kadena’s Schilling Center. About forty dedicated people, including children, meet twice a week to learn and refine their skills, sometimes donning the colorful costumes of the particular region whose traditional dance they perform.

Rehearsing in outfits is important as the full skirts play their part adding drama and flash to the ladies. As they twirl the other ladies on the sidelines urge them on. “Show some bloomers!” they laugh, encouraging a vigorous display of energy.

Each region has its own unique and quite distinctive outfit, from the gauzy, brilliant white gowns of Vera Cruz to the multi-hued flairs of Jalisco. Oaxaca, Chiapas, Morelia - every part of the country is easily identified by the type of dress that is worn.

The Kadena troupe, most of whom are connected either to the military or DoDDS, are proud Americans, but their love for the dances of their ancestral land is readily apparent in the enthusiasm with which they perform.

Their rehearsals are for fun and comradeship, and, according to present director, Yesenia Washington, open to anybody who’d like to join.

“Last year,” she says, “the group performed at every school In Okinawa.” They do not charge for the shows, depending on donations to buy the costumes, which are handmade in Mexico. “A dress can cost almost two hundred dollars,” Washington remarks.

This year the Ballet Folklorico will perform at Bob Hope Elementary School on the fifth of May. Unfortunately space for the two performances is limited and so is open only to the students and faculty.

The group rehearses Thursday evenings at 1900 and Sunday afternoons at 1500 at Schilling. Anyone wishing to participate, or for information on the groups availability, should contact Yesenia Washington at 090-6637-7404 or by e-mail at .

The Best Little Bagel House in Okinawa?

Tim Kilkenny, Supervisory Education Specialist at the DoDDS Director's Office at Torii Station, is not a man given to casual hyperbole. When he declares that he has found the best bagel he has ever eaten, including any in New York City, the statement must be given serious consideration. It’s no mystery that anyone who has tasted a fresh New York deli bagel knows that the Big Apple knows bagels, by George.

The fact that bagels can even be found in Okinawa is not particularly remarkable. The tire-shaped bread can be eaten in a number of variations and with many different names from Finland to China. However, the most familiar type to Americans was introduced to the U.S. by immigrant Jews long ago.

What is unusual is that the bagels made by a small café in Okinawa were able to elicit an exclamation of delight from a normally understated, if not taciturn, gentleman. That is what made the search for the source practically imperative.

The Cactus Eatrip (sic) Café is not easy to spot. It is set back from Highway 58 in a non-descript building with only a small sign marking its presence. Parking is limited and cars back up to each other, which means people must sometimes leave their plates to move out of somebody’s way. This seems to add to rather than diminish the informal experience of the place.

Entering is like stepping into a Venice Beach or Greenwich Village coffee house of the past. Mellow jazz flows out of the big speakers, mismatched furniture creates an ambiance of relaxation, an invitation to be at ease, loosen the tie. Bring your laptop, if you must, since the place is wired and costs you not a yen to troll the internet. This is the 21st century, after all.

A large blackboard above the display of goodies offers a dazzling array of choices. That may be the only anxiety associated with the establishment – what to have? Prosciutto and cheese? Avocado and tomato? Roast Chicken? And what about the flavor of cream cheese? Blueberry, maple, rum raisin, or maybe caramel? And those are just some of the items to ponder.

Try the traditional, smoked salmon, also known as lox, and cream cheese with capers. Take lots of napkins, because the piled high cream cheese and lox ooze out as you bite into the warm, perfectly done bagel.

You can top it off with a special ‘drink of the day’. The mango shake is thick and exotic, but you might prefer to savor the caramel banana drink. All told the tab should run about ¥1000 for the all homemade lunch. Coffees, teas and alcoholic libations are also available.


Owner Ryuta Katsumi learned how to bake from his parents in Kamakura where they operated a cooking school. He came to Okinawa because of the weather eight years ago after spending time in his youth in London absorbing the scene and learning proper English. Three years ago he opened the little restaurant with his wife, Makiko, now expecting their first child in February.

Making the delicious circles of bread is an art unto itself. After forming, the dough is proofed, or let to stand in a cool place for about twelve hours. After that it is boiled in water, sometimes with flavoring ingredients added then baked until the cook deems it ready.

Katsumi and his assistant, Yochan, pretty much run the place by themselves. While they specialize in bagels of all kinds, they also offer focaccia, an Italian bread. Katsumi will cater for special events by request.

You will agree after a visit that Kilkenny was right, and if not the best to be found anywhere, surely you will find none better.

Café Cactus Eatrip is a block and a half south of the intersection of Highway 58 and Highway 81, at the end of the NEC building (Okinawa Denshi Company). You can check them out at www.cactus-eatrip.jp, or call them at (098)890-6601.

Unlocking the Spirits in the Rice – Awamori, Only in Okinawa

A casual excursion along an Okinawan neighborhood can lead to interesting surprises. Take, for instance, a few days ago when my much better half shamed me out of my easy chair and into my walking shoes for a stroll into the crowded hills of Chatan Cho, just north of the Camp Foster fire station.

Not far from our house on a typically narrow and somewhat steep street is a nondescript building like many others. The lane is barely the width of a tiny car and as I was sucking in my gravity-seeking belly to allow one to pass, I noticed through the gaping doors of the structure a bank of gleaming stainless steel vats. They were huge, from floor to the second story tall with valves and tubes snaking about.

Curiosity aroused, I stepped in and asked if anyone spoke English. A young man tending to a smaller vat politely motioned for me to wait as he went in and came back with another young man. This was Mr. Tamanaha Yutaka, who, as it turned out, is the comptroller of the enterprise, and who explained that I was in a shuzosho. A shuzosho is a distillery and here at the Cha Tan Cho Rho Shu Zo is concocted the potent liquor unique to Okinawa known as awamori.

About six hundred years ago a crafty traveler sailed from Thailand to Okinawa bringing a batch of long-grained rice and the secrets of its distillation into the drink that Dr. Kinichiro Sakaguchi of Tokyo University, an authority in the field of zymurgy, declared “one of the best spirits in the world.” (Zymurgy, by the way, is the study of the process of fermentation in brewing and distilling. It is distilling that makes awamori different than sake, which is brewed much like beer, although also using rice as its basis.)

While the cat is out of the bag in terms of making the clear ‘firewater’, the rice used is still the indica genus of Thailand. Awamori is made by only forty-seven distillers in the Ryukyus and they each have their own particular way of blending the final product. The blending proportions, however, are still trade secrets and rely on the abilities of professional tasters to produce the desired formulas.

According to Mr. Yutaka, who guided us through a tour of the plant, the process in use is still the same basic one discovered centuries ago. The rice is first washed and steamed in vats for at least twenty-four hours. It is then dried and kept at a constant warm temperature for another short period. Here it is introduced to another interesting specimen, a black mold called ‘koji’. Black koji mold is also indigenous to Okinawa and used nowhere else. As the koji permeates to the core of the heated rice it creates enzymes that break down starch molecules into sugar, which can then be fermented.

After a day or two water and yeast are added to the koji rice in other vats and covered for two or more weeks. Now the mixture is a mash known as ‘moromi.’ Up until now the process for making sake and awamori are similar. But then comes the distillation where the moromi is heated and the water extracted. What remains is raw liquor.

The new spirits are stored, initially in underground tanks to cool, then in the large steel tuns that first caught my eye. The awamori ages for at least three years before it is blended either with older spirits and/or water to desired proofs. Awamori, like most distilled liquor, mellows with age and the price rises with the years.

The task of overseeing the operation falls to Mr. Hitoshi, who is also the master taster. He is in charge of creating the end products of the business, which has been in the same family and location for over one hundred years.

As with all alcoholic beverages awamori should be treated with respect both for its potency and its origins.

The thing is, I learned much about the liquid in the bottles I see in every store and tourist shop from my little jaunt, and I’m eager as a puppy now when my much better half holds up the leash and asks, “Ready for a walk?”

A Touch of Latin – Okinawa Salsas

It’s flashy, it’s brassy, an energetic exhibition of kinetic exuberance – it’s Salsa! The word literally means ‘sauce’ in Spanish but what it is in the dance world is a sensual interplay of passion, full of twirls, fancy moves and spicy interpretations.

If the sofa is beginning to fit your bottom a bit too comfortably, and you feel like you know the way every tv show is going to turn out, and you think your life has kind of landed in a rut, you could be ready for a taste of the hot rhythms and dynamic flair of Salsa, New York style – and you won’t have to travel thousands of miles to find it.

Given that you are on an Asian island where the emotional tone is generally understated, it may sound a little odd that you can walk into a club on base and find yourself in the thick of a Latin tempo, but you can. And even if you don’t know salsa from duck soup you can find yourself in a few short weeks moving like a professional dancer wowing the spectators on the sidelines or your friends at the next get together.

All you have to do is motivate yourself (and your significant other, if you have one) to get off the couch on Thursday and Friday nights and head to Erik Rodriguez’ free classes. On Thursday at Thirsty’s on Camp Futenma show up by eight o’clock in the evening for walk-in basic instruction. You’ll get an hour and a half of enthusiastic exercise learning the quick-quick-slow fundamental steps of the dance craze that is a variant of the classic mambo. From 9:30 until 10:00 you can practice what you just learned and get ready for Friday night.

Then, come Friday from 8:00 to 9:00 pm, at the Globe and Anchor on Foster, a level one course is offered by Erik and his lovely wife, Yuki. The moves get a little more elaborate and you’ll learn the tactile hints that inform you and your partner what the next step will be and how to do it with grace. After that, the next hour expands the repertoire, moving up to level two where you get into the really fiery grooves.

But what if you don’t have a significant other or a friend you can talk into sharing the moment with you? Not a problem. The Salsa atmosphere is social all the way. Erik makes certain everybody gets a stab at showing off their stuff by having people change partners often during the evening, so even if you come alone you are bound to get in the wave.

If, as may happen, you get dance fever, Erik and Yuki offer private lessons for quite reasonable fees at different times during the week. There are at least half a dozen venues on Okinawa, mainly in the Ginowan and Naha areas, that offer a Salsa club ambience where you can party down until dawn.

Check out the scene at Erik’s web site: www.mamboki.com

A Threat of Extinction Becomes a Hope for Peace

Imagine, if you will, a missile silo armed with the most terrifying weapons of war, nuclear bombs, poised as deterrents to threats from aggression, but promising, if fired, to unleash the darkness of extinction upon most of the life on earth. Now imagine that this site has been transformed into a place of serenity and a monument to peace.

Sounds like a fairy tale or a John Lennon dream? Perhaps, but this is what actually happened on Okinawa nearly twenty-five years ago.

The story began during the height of the Cold War when children were routinely taught in school to “duck and cover” in the event of an atomic attack. The arms race was full steam ahead with the United States and its allies on one side and communist dominated countries on the other. Nobody trusted anybody.

In a top-secret program, the U.S. set out to build a defense system that would thwart any attempts by hostile forces to dominate the world stage through nuclear weapons. Silos containing sleek guided rockets carrying deadly warheads were constructed at strategic places around the globe, including many in the western United States.

As the missiles grew obsolete and tensions eased, most of the silos were intentionally destroyed. Out of all the sites once active, two remain as tourist attractions, one in South Dakota and the other in Arizona. But in no other place in the world was any ever used as a monument to peace except right here in Okinawa.

The Mace B site under the command of the 498th Tactical Missile Group based on Kadena was decommissioned in 1969, and was eventually sold to a Japanese real estate company.

At that time Soka Gakkai International, a Buddhist organization, was looking for a site on which to build a training center. They bought the property intending to raze the structures but soon realized that the hardened concrete silos were, practically speaking, indestructible.

The Soka Gakkai Okinawa Training Center was built in 1977 but it was not until 1983, when International President Daisaku Ikeda suggested the idea, that the site began its conversion into a base for world peace. Ikeda, a prolific author and scholar, had dedicated his entire life to the organization and its quest for ‘kosen rufu’ (world peace). He felt that changing the original facility from its former use as a base for war into a world base for peace exemplified the goals of Soka Gakkai.

As President Ikeda put it in This Beautiful Earth, which he wrote, “… Why don’t we turn this missile site into a foundation for our thoughts and reflections on peace, not only for Japan, but for the whole world?” In this way the “Monument to World Peace” was born. It was finally dedicated to its present use in 1991.

While the place is a religious center, visitors are allowed to tour the grounds and a converted launch tube.

Once a missile capable of carrying a warhead with ten times the destructive power of the bomb dropped on Hiroshima was aimed at the heart of China in the ramp now called the Okinawa Ikeda Peace Memorial Hall. A model of a Mace B rocket is a reminder of that time. Photographs depict the history of the center’s transformation.

Drawings created by civilians who survived the World War II battle of Okinawa line the incline. The drawings and paintings are not professionally done but convey the raw emotion of the cruelty of the battle that the native Okinawans faced from both sides of the conflict.

While much of what is on display is in Japanese, the intent will be clear to anyone who attends.

As you walk outside, the tranquility and the harmonious beauty of the landscaping are evidence of an ideal that lies at the heart of the Soka Gakkai organization and one that should be the desire of all thoughtful human beings.

To find the Peace Center, head north on Highway 58 and turn right at the first light past the Razzan Sea Park Resort Hotel. A sign, easy to miss, identifies the “Soka Gakkai Okinawa Kenshu Dojo”. Follow the road approximately three tenths of a kilometer to the entrance on the left.