It may be a little hard to believe that you can find most excellent Russian food in this part of the planet, but you can. It’s in a tiny restaurant called Perestroika, smack in the heart of Naha.
Owner and operator Elena Nikitenko named it after Mikhail Gorbachev’s philosophy that began the dissolution of the old Soviet Union and the ending of the Cold War. That, in turn, led to more friendly relationships between what is now Russia and the United States and opened Russia to the rest of the world.
That is very fortunate for people in Okinawa because now the sampling of real Russian home style cooking is within reach.
To assure that the cuisine stays true to its roots Ms Nikitenko employs a chef from her native city of Vladivostok who, Nikitenko says, “puts her heart and soul into her cooking.”
She also states, “I would like for everybody to try my restaurant’s food because it is like the warmth of being at home.”
Of course, the home part could be true if you have an ex-grand chef like Irina Sechova doing the kitchen for you. It’s not just anybody who can whip up a real ‘jarkoe’ so perfectly delicious that the bread covering baked on top overflows, like a mushroom gone ballistic. Inside the bubbly stew pod pie is a savory blend of meat and vegetables that compels you to sop up the last little bit at the bottom of the bowl.
The jarkoe is only one of the culinary concoctions familiar to Russians but probably unknown to most Americans. For example, how many have tasted Sibirskia Pelmeni? It is a traditional dish of minced meat filling surrounded by thin dumpling dough. And how about Morskoi Zamok, which is filleted cod in a spinach sauce? The variety is tempting. Golybcy, Russian style rolled cabbage – delicious! Then there’s Myaso Po-rybatski, described as flavorful pork served with scallops, onions, tomatoes and cheese.
Some of Perestroika’s menu items might be recognized by taste, if not by name. Vareniki is also called a perogie in Canada or pirogi in Chicago. It’s a dumpling stuffed with mashed potatoes and sour cabbage.
Beef Stroganoff is a well-known classic but this version is the genuine article, made by someone who would never think of using stuff that comes in a box. Real beef, real sour cream and real Russian soul go into this delectable offering.
There are other surprises you will want to discover, from the creative salads to the out-of-this world desserts.
There is one extra special treat if you go on Saturday or Sunday – the passionate dancing of Leila Askerova. She performs traditional folk dances and a temperature-raising Russian Gypsy dance with energetic, earthy abandonment.
The restaurant is open Tuesday through Sunday from 6:00 pm to midnight with last orders taken at 11:00. Prices range from ¥ 1700 to ¥ 3200 for complete sets, with all items available ala carte.
To find this gem take Highway 58 south from Kinser, past the Kukasai turnoff to the overpass with sign announcing Highway 330 (before the actual intersection to 330) and take a left. Go to the end of the block, turn right, heading south. There will be two small parking lots where you should park as the restaurant has only two spaces. Walk south past the first small street and look for Perestroika in the middle of the next block on the west side of the street.
Phone (098) 863-2206 or check out their website
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