Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Thalasso Therapy – Neptune’s Healthy Gift

Most health professionals agree that stress and tension can be the underlying cause of many physical ailments. Fortunately, one treatment for some kinds of such strain can be quite easy to take.

Thalasso therapy may sound like Greek to most of us, and it actually is. The word thalassa means ‘sea’ in that language. While ‘taking the waters’ is an age-old practice, it was a French doctor in the nineteenth century that first used the term to describe the use of seawater as a form of physical therapy.

There is no mystery to the therapy. While it can include showers of warm water, application of marine mud or of algae paste, or the inhalation of sea fog, one method is to simply step into a hot pool of seawater and allow the soothing action to take effect. The benefit, not medically proven but widely accepted, is said to occur through the body’s absorption of some of the ocean’s mineral content.

Trace elements of magnesium, potassium, calcium sulphates and sodium, found in seawater, are believed to be absorbed through the pores of the skin.

Hot springs are found throughout Japan, thanks to the geothermal activity that created its many islands, including Okinawa, and are known as ‘onsen’. However, in order to be called onsen the Japanese government has set minimum standards for the minerals to be found in the water.

In Okinawa many of the finer hotels offer seawater pools or treatments but there are some establishments that are dedicated solely to the spa environment. Three that are popular among people in the know are Chula-u in Chatan, Kanna Thalasso in Ginoza, and JA Bath House Aroma in Ginowan City. Though all offer various forms of massage and saunas each has unique qualities.

Chula-u is situated in American Village across the street from the New Century Hotel behind Jusco. It has the largest outdoor pools of the three, with access to the adjoining beach. Men and women are both allowed to use the pools but there are separate hot springs for the customary nude bathing, men on one side, women on the other.

Chula-u also offers a fine Japanese style restaurant with a view over the huge outdoor pools to the China Sea beyond. The water here flows from a sea geyser at a temperature of about 106° F. Be sure to try the “Doctor Fish”, tiny fishes that eat old skin cells from people’s feet and cause a most agreeable sensation of electric tingling.

Kanna Thalasso is owned by the village of Ginoza and can be found by leaving the expressway at exit 9 and heading south on highway 329 for about two kilometers. Look for it on the left just past the Hokubu Hospital.

Kanna features a series of connected indoor pools with jet sprays, and a large Olympic size lap pool. It also has a water slide that offers an exhilarating plunge into a not so warm pool. Outside, the spa has a number of pools also with jet sprays, some under canopies, some uncovered to the whims of the weather.

Kanna has the most spectacular of settings, facing the Pacific Ocean looking out onto the islands of Ikei and Miyagi.

It has both dry and steam saunas with a frigid plunging pool adjacent to them and the rest of the hot pools. The restaurant is pleasant and seating can be had outside to enjoy the fabulous view. Bathing caps are mandatory and the pools are all co-ed. No nude bathing here.

JA Bath House Aroma is a pleasant surprise in the midst of an industrial complex behind the 100 yen store off of Convention Center Drive. Turn west at the light immediately north of UniQlo until you see the flags opposite the Tostem building. There are no signs in English but the exquisite Japanese garden in front will be a clue.

Although the spa is not directly on the beach it has been designed into a very tasteful environment. The outdoor pools are set in a stunningly created landscape that will make you forget the outside world. A word of caution: JA does not allow anyone with tattoos to enter.

JA offers jet baths, a peaceful relaxing pool, bubble baths and a waterfall pool. Clothing is optional in the separate areas, as is the tradition in Japan. A small restaurant is on the premises for refueling after the relaxation open from 2:00 to 3:00 pm.

Prices for the spas vary from 1,000 yen to 2,500 yen and can depend on the time of day or week. It wise to check the schedules at each place as hours may also vary.

Brazilian Jiu-jitsu, The ‘Gentle’ Martial Art

Will Weber, a Kadena High School freshman, can be considered a typical twenty-first century teenager. The fifteen year-old shares many common traits with his peers including being a devoted fan of UFC. It is his dream to enter the octagonal ring in a display of raw physical confrontation.

The Ultimate Fighting Championship, along with WWE (World Wrestling Entertainment), holds a fascination for a great many people, not only youths. The UFC began as a no-holds barred battle using all the tools of hand-to-hand combat to cause an opponent to yield. It has evolved slightly after outrage about its initial anything goes genesis to make the contests somewhat less dangerous.

Weber has the right idea about preparing for a possible future in the world of mayhem by studying a form of judo known as BJJ or Brazilian Jiu-jitsu. That is because a surprising number of UFC and WWE fighters win their bouts due to their knowledge and skill in the practice.

As with most or all martial arts, BJJ has maneuvers that can be utilized to disable or kill in a life or death situation. But while participants each train for their own reasons many are interested in the sporting aspect.

Marine George Galvan, for instance, says, “I learn how to do the deadly stuff in my military training. Although it does complement what I learn there, I do this for the fun and exercise.”

Michael Allen, an Airman, along with his 18 year-old Cody and 12 year-old Kyle, practice not just for the fun of it, but, he says, to help them develop confidence. Kyle is the youngest of Nakamoto’s trainees and already shows an impressive understanding of the sport.

Okinawa now can boast of only one accredited Brazilian jiu-jitsu instructor. His name is Ivan Nakamoto and he represents a return of sorts to its origin of the art that began in Japan as a samurai fighting technique called kodokan judo.

In 1914 an expert in kodokan, Mitsuyo Maeda, traveled to Brazil where he encountered a man whose family has become the singularly best known name in BJJ. The man, Carlos Gracie, learned from Maeda and developed his own unique version of the method. His four sons also became masters and their descendents predominate as exponents of the constantly changing art.

It was a Gracie who partnered with a promoter to form the UFC, meant to showcase mixed martial arts (MMA) to the public.

Nakamoto was born in Brazil with a father of Japanese descent and a Brazilian mother. Like many children in the country he grew up with the technique. Since then he has become a professor of what is often referred to as the ‘gentle’ martial art. Unlike karate, boxing or other contact arts BJJ is a no-strike technique.

Its basic premise is that most contests end up on the ground and the main objective is to take down an opponent where the use of leverage with legs and arms can be employed in a series of joint locks or chokeholds. In this way a smaller person can overcome the weight or strength advantage of a larger adversary.

Nakamoto’s training teaches basic moves that are essential skills in the practice. Students move in grades belt by belt as they become proficient in a bewildering array of moves and tactics. The highest rank, rarely achieved, is the red belt stage. Nakamoto is a black belt level adept.

He began teaching BJJ only in March at Risner Gym on Kadena, charging a very reasonable $80.00 a month for lessons three times a week. He also teaches off base at Onoyama Budokan, the dome shaped arena next to the ‘tree restaurant’ on the Naha Airport road. For the twice a week lessons there his fee is 5,000 yen.

Men, women and children are all welcome to join in learning the self defense skills. He can be contacted at 090-4268-0731 or by e-mail at

Legend or Living Landmark – Jack of ‘Jack’s Place’

The passion that Sadamu “Jack” Oshiro has for his work as manager of one of Kadena’s well known eating establishments has not diminished with time. As a matter of fact, the seventy-something Oshiro seems to enjoy his job with an enthusiasm one would associate with a neophyte having something to prove.

But Oshiro is no beginner. He has presided as manager of Jack’s Place for over 36 years and continues to oversee every detail of the operation, which has earned a reputation as one of the finer places in Okinawa to enjoy a meal.

He did not start out to be in the food industry. As a young man of 18 he had plans to attend college in the United States and was actually accepted at the University of Ohio. But one day he visited a friend who was working at a club on the base, which had fallen into American hands after the bloody battles of World War II.

The club was busy and the manager asked Oshiro if he wanted to work. It was a fateful decision leading to a long and successful career.

Although Oshiro was born in Okinawa, he has had a bit of the “luck ‘o the Irish”, so to speak. As the Americans made their way inexorably across the Pacific, he was sent with other children to the mainland where it was thought he would be out of harm’s way. He was twelve years old, just short of his thirteenth birthday, a fact that kept him from being drafted into the Japanese Army. As they zig zagged on their way to evade gunfire and torpedoes, another ship carrying children was mistakenly sunk by ships of the US Navy. All aboard were lost at sea. Oshiro’s vessel was untouched.

Oshiro spent the remainder of the war in Miyazaki, where, he says, he was excited by what he considered an adventure. “I was just a kid,” he remarks, “so I didn’t really understand what was going on.”

Returning to Okinawa he discovered that his father had been killed during an air attack. “It was a Grumman plane,” he says. The elder Oshiro lived long enough to write out a will. The experience could have embittered the young man, but he says, “My father taught me that sometimes we are involved in circumstances beyond our control. We should not hate our fate, but live as best as we can.”

In the film, The Last Samurai, the character played by Tom Cruise notes that the Japanese, upon awakening , spend the rest of their day attempting to bring perfection to everything they do. The observation, in general, is fairly accurate and could describe the attitude of Oshiro in his work.

The extensive and eclectic menu at Jack’s Place is of his design. He is there every evening along with longtime hostess, Kiyo Sakuda, to greet customers, encourage employees, assuring that everything from the décor to the settings is as good as can be.

It was as a tribute to his devotion to quality as well as to his warm personality that the club was named after him. It happened over thirty years ago when the place was known as Skoshi KOOM – the Little Kadena Officer’s Open Mess – when he was called to the main club for an “emergency.”

“When I arrived at the club,” he relates, “I found about 400 people waiting to give me a surprise testimonial party.”

He was greeted with a standing ovation and a song written especially for him was performed. As a finale he was handed a brand new sign to replace “Skoshi KOOM” with “Jack’s Place.”

You can sample some of Jack’s trademark excellence in the form of a variety of dishes and at reasonable rates. Jack’s Place specializes in Kobe beef and also offers fine seafood, Japanese and Chinese cuisine and garlic dishes, along with a kids’ menu.

Jack Oshiro is an integral part of Kadena’s history, happy to relate his experiences. He’s seen a lot of changes, watched young officers become flag officers, and, no doubt, will see many more.

Jack’s Place can be found by taking the first right after Gate One, just up from the Student Transportation Office. Open every day except Monday for dinner only.
Phone: (DSN) 634-JACK.

Okinawa’s ‘Juan Valdez’

When it comes to a cup of coffee, it can’t get any better or fresher than Hiro’s. This Okinawan version of ‘Juan Valdez’ grows his own, harvests it, cleans it, roasts it and then brews it, too.

Hiro Adachi tends his field in the hills of Yambaru at the picturesque, northern part of the island. There, his twelve hundred trees yield over thirteen hundred kilograms of organic beans from December through May every year. Most of the crop is sold through his small coffee house on Route 70, which is managed by his daughter, Tomoko. But many customers who have found the small wayside coffee haven after having been stationed in Okinawa receive his product via mail as far away as California.

Camp McTureous is nearby and Adachi commented that a lot of Marines come to know his place and appreciate the brew he offers. As he has noted in articles written about him in such coffee gourmet magazines as “Lightening- The Coffee Style Magazine”, published on mainland Japan, “my coffee has a natural, sweet taste to it – easy to drink, even for people who don’t drink a lot of coffee.”

He says the differences in types of coffee are all in the place it’s grown and in the way it is roasted.

“Coffee trees likes cool mornings and hot afternoons,” he points out. And, he adds, “an interesting fact that is that the lighter the roast, the stronger the caffeine content.”

“On the other hand,” he continues, “roasted beans with a very dark color actually have less caffeine and can be drunk in the nighttime before going to sleep. People who like a deep taste with a little bitterness will prefer the dark roast.”

Adachi began his personal coffee plantation in 1993 after working with his uncle and cousin in Kona, Hawaii for a few years. He imported Arabica trees from Brazil and waited patiently for the five years it took for them to mature and begin producing.

He is originally from Osaka where he was involved in electronics and even had a six-year career as a racecar driver. Leaving Osaka for Saipan and other Pacific islands he discovered he was suited to a casual life style. Visits to Okinawa made him realize he could use the knowledge he gathered working in Hawaii to create the unhurried life he wanted while still being in Japan.

For coffee lovers, his decision to settle here is fortuitous. There are probably not many places where one will get the opportunity to savor the taste of homegrown coffee no matter what price they pay.

To have a sip of Hiro’s you will need time to meander all the way to the tiny village of Takae. Highway 70, an extension of Highway 58 on the Pacific side of the island, is a winding, slow road far away from the traffic of central and southern Okinawa. It is worth the trip alone simply for the incredibly beautiful scenery. Coupled with the taste bud pleasing experience of his coffee (and Tomoko’s home baked cookies) it is a very nice way to spend a day.

Adachi speaks English well and can be contacted by phone at 098-043-2126 or by e-mail at hirocoffeefarm@k5.dion.ne.jp.

Hitting a New High in Okinawa

Maybe you’ve heard that human beings all hide a ‘child within’, even when they are adults. And maybe you’ve wondered where yours got lost.

Not to worry. You’ll be sure to find that ‘child’ when you’re soaring high above the lush jungle trees at one of Okinawa’s newest attractions, Forest Adventure in Onna Village.

Opened two years ago, Yvonne Sato commented, “It was a long time coming.” “And really,” she added, “it’s what Okinawa is all about.”

No doubt her reference was to the magnificent natural beauty of the relatively untouched places still left here.

Sato is one of five professional staff at the compound who will teach you the important basics that will keep you from any whiff of danger as you wheel on the cables suspended everywhere above the forested compound.

She came to the island from Scotland four years ago to do some scuba diving then fell in love with an Okinawan pilot, married, and now considers the place her home.

As she illustrates the correct method of fitting the French made harness and how to properly hook the carabiners and pulleys to assure that one does not tumble into the foliage far below, it is easy to see that she thoroughly enjoys her work.

Demonstrating on one 300-foot suspension it becomes even more apparent when she dangles upside down, the living embodiment of playful ecstasy, zipping across the valley, landing expertly upright on the cushioning wood chips at the end.

The course is laid out over the mountain with steel cables anchored to sturdy steel towers, the longest run being well over a hundred thrilling yards across. Along the way you will step gingerly over a “Tibetan bridge”, wrapped almost in a cocoon made of corded netting while safely attached to a safety cable overhead.

Reading about the place before arriving, childhood images of playing Tarzan in the woods came to mind, and it was a delight to learn that the end of the course features the ‘Tarzan Swing’.

This bit of excitement entails a jump from a tower probably thirty or forty feet above the ground, flying a hundred feet or so into a cargo net and sticking there like a fly to flypaper. It can be reminiscent of a Japanese game show where people in Velcro suits fling themselves into Velcro covered walls. But, of course, one does not actually get stuck to the net and after picking one’s way across it to the catwalk dignity soon returns, although giggles can involuntarily escape after thinking of what you just did.

The rest of the entertainment is provided by an obstacle course meant to provoke fun rather than strenuous exercise as, for example, a wobbly trip over ‘Granpa’s Crossing’ and the balancing act called for in the ‘log swing’.

Lest you feel that you must be a well-buffed military person to enjoy the experience, be assured that this reporter is an old geezer with a sorry lack of physical buffness and it was no problem at all navigating the runs.

Probably it was the ‘child within’ who was really up there, but it was the old guy who had all the fun.

Getting to the Forest Adventure will take keeping your eyes peeled, as the signs are not in English and the reception office does not stand out. Mark exactly ten kilometers from the stoplight at the main gate at Torii Station, keeping on Highway 6 towards Cape Maeda, and, about a short block after the Minshuku Camino guest house, look to your right for the office abutting a small grocery market. That will be where you will register, sign a waiver, and pay your fee. A shuttle will take you up to the mountain.

The website, www.foret-aventure.jp, is in Japanese but you can see photos of the place. The phone is (098)963-0088. Cost of admission is 3,500 yen for adults and 2,500 yen for those under 18. Family specials are available, but only yen are accepted, no credit cards or dollars.

There are some caveats: the weight limit is 286 pounds, and the minimum height is 56 inches. Groups of ten or more must supply a mobile phone number, and book and confirm at least by 4:00 pm the day before to guarantee time blocs.

Kin Town Flea Market

The old adage about ‘one man’s trash being another man’s treasure’ is plainly evident while strolling through an old style flea market. There, attics and garages are emptied and expectant vendors lay out their wares in hopes that someone will want what they sell badly enough to actually shell out cash.

Hope, the impulse to collect, and raw need, being perpetual human attributes, combine to form the engine that keeps these ragtag events alive and thriving.

Surely there are those who wander through the stalls, deliciously feeling the thrill of the hunt, peering and poking under the jumble of goods hoping that a gem has somehow escaped the knowledge of the seller and the eyes of some other savvy buyer.

There are others whose impulse to collect extends to things unfathomable to many – string, buttons, obscure novels, toy soldiers and such – while others desire items somewhat easier to understand, such as coins, stamps, art.

Still others haunt the cacophony of offerings in search of reasonably priced and still usable common necessities like pots and pans, baby bassinets, clothes for fast growing families.

But there are still others who enjoy the mere pleasure of experiencing the amazing variety of stuff that is created, imagined, and utilized by the fascinating species to which we belong.

Whatever the motive, flea markets are interesting environments and, although many exist, none can surpass the character of some you can discover on the byroads of Okinawa.

Take the one at Kin Town on Highway 329 heading north to Camp Hansen. It is the epitome of funky on the exterior, a conglomeration of canvas, tarp and seemingly extemporaneous construction. But disembark from your chariot, adventurer, and step into another world so full of just ‘stuff’ that it almost raises a raucous music of its own.

There is some semblance of order. In the main section, fruits and vegetables, mostly homegrown, occupy the first irregular aisles, but beyond them anything goes.

So take your time to look around. While some of the inside merchandise matches the funkiness of the exterior there is lots of really nice booty to peruse. Check out the snakeskin wallets and the skillful handiwork on the shanshin banjoes. Take a careful look at the clothing in the back. It looks new, and probably is, and would cost you a pretty penny, or yen, in a classy department store.

Don’t neglect to browse through Tomishige Umosa’s collection of vinyl records. Elvis is in there and old Beatles, too. Examining the American coins in a box nearby you may notice a slew of Liberty head dimes. He says he used to drive a taxi over thirty years ago and got them as payment for fares. There are misprinted twenty-dollar bills as well, but you’d be well advised to know what you’re looking at before you lay out the price.

Elsewhere, Buddha figures repose next to well-used baseball gloves, and the eclectic variety of objects would put an old fashioned dime store to shame.

On your way out be sure to pick up produce so fresh you’d have to grow it yourself to get fresher.

Immediately south of the main stall section is another informal construction housing live plants, including cacti. Inside, another sensory assault waits. Ceramic pots, statuary, knickknacks, polished natural wood shapes, all covered in dust make it appear as if the things have been there for centuries. It is so much that your eyes may have a hard time finding something to settle on, but try. At the very least you will be pleasantly amused. And maybe you’ll find something you just can’t live without.

You’ll find this oasis of stuff just about half a kilometer north of Expressway Exit 8 at Kin Town. It is fully open on weekends, closed on Mondays, and some hawkers will be there the rest of the week.

The Young Men and the Sea – On the Briny Deep With Captain Chris

At 0500 on an Okinawan Saturday morning two black vans glide through the pre-dawn murk. Anticipation rides the faces of the eight Marines inside. Their senses are poised for action.

The sun has yet to show its face from its journey to the underworld as the warriors reach their take off zone and unload their gear and the day’s necessary supplies. The captain, an easygoing sort, waits patiently, knowing his charges are in for a heck of a mission.

Boarding the craft that will take them to their objective, the young men stow their stuff and take places aft of the fifty-footer. Quickly the five hundred horsepower diesel engine throbs to life and the captain eases out of the Awase Port berth and into open waters.

As soon as the boat is free of the harbor, purring like a giant cat, the Marines settle in. Then, as if at a silent signal, one reaches into the ice filled cooler and starts handing out the brew. The men begin fueling up, ready for a long day of deep-sea angling.

The captain has been running folks out to the fishing grounds for ten years. He knows the seas and the islands around Okinawa like he does his own name, which happens to be Chris Pancoast. He began taking out charters on his own last year and has a reputation of being a straight-shooting skipper.

Pancoast is one of only two Americans ever invited into the Okinawa fishing association.
He has been on island for fifteen years, five of them as a Marine. He fell in love with the place and one of its daughters and speaks pretty good Japanese.

“I can be on the board of directors, be president, and set policy now,” he says proudly of his membership in the association. It is obvious he honors the privilege.

His boat, Blue Fin, is Spartan-like, meant strictly for the business of catching fish. No frills, and the fishermen seem not to mind a bit. One Marine remarks that he’s been out with Captain Chris before and likes it better than the so-called party boats that carry up to a hundred. “No room on those,” he says, “too many people, lines get tangled.”

And on this craft a person keeps all their catch if they want. Some cruise charters set a limit.

At about 0730 the sonar spots a school, probably lollygagging around the sunken buoy that has created an environment for their food supply. The boat is out about fifteen miles north of Okinawa in open sea.

Captain Chris lets the boat power down and soon is drifting gently. The Marines come to life, hustling out the bait, tossing out the chum.

Gunnery Sergeant ‘Gunny’ Wes Latham gets the first hit. It sets the adrenaline flowing in all of them as he pulls up a nice yellow tail. It’s a fighter, and Gunny is a happy man when he hauls it in.

It doesn’t take long for the other guys to start reeling in their own tuna, roiling the water with their struggle.

In about half an hour the action slows down and Captain Chris tells the men to reel in. He checks the fish finder and points the bow seaward again.

Now the catch is the silvery bonita, related to the tuna, and also offering a good game when snagged. The fellows finally break a sweat with the strain of the quick abundance and the direct glare of the fully risen sun.

Then Griffin Alford feels a hit on his rod that is definitely bigger than the previous tugs and suddenly the luminescent splash reveals a fighting mad mahi mahi that has swallowed the hook.

It is not giving in easily, leading Alford in a battle that circles the boat. Captain Chris stands by giving encouragement and advice. The standoff lasts for more than fifteen minutes before the fish finally is gaffed aboard. It fights even then, resisting to the last.

Alford is a happy guy, tuckered out but victorious and no one doubts he will take the pot for having brought in the biggest fish. It weighs in at about twenty pounds and reaches almost three and a half feet. He has been endowed with a terrific fish story that he will remember for a long time.

A little later it’s Gunny’s turn to snag a nice sized mahi mahi. He gets a good fight out of it for another fifteen minutes, at least, but this time the fish wins, breaking the line at the last moment before the gaffing hook has got it. If disappointment has a face, Latham wears it.

By the end of the day everybody has had a taste of the excitement, fished out and tired, but happy. As one puts it, “Open sea, good fishing, great buddies, and beer - what could be better?”

If you’d like to try your luck, you can contact Captain Chris at 090-9788-0282. The cost is about a hundred clams for a really nice, long day.